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	<title>Adam Freedman Photography</title>
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		<title>Lighting Q&amp;A</title>
		<link>http://www.aefreedman.us/lighting-qa/</link>
		<comments>http://www.aefreedman.us/lighting-qa/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 19:12:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>adamFreedman</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[Check back frequently. I will update this on a regular basis. If there is something you want to know send me an email and I will see if I can get the information for you.
What makes light soft?

This is a great question that I get a good bit in workshops. Most photographers think it is [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Check back frequently. I will update this on a regular basis. If there is something you want to know send me an email and I will see if I can get the information for you.</strong></p>
<p><strong>What makes light soft?</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>This is a great question that I get a good bit in workshops. Most photographers think it is diffusion material. This is not the case. Diffusion material only controls the brightness of the light not the softness of the light. The larger the light source the softer the light. If you use a spot or direct light you will get very harsh shadows and contrast or hard light. If you use a soft box to enlarge the light source the light spreads out the shadows become softer more subtle.  </strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Can distance effect the softness of light?</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Distance effects the quality of the light, and in my opinion you need to determine the optimal distance for you lighting equipment and situation. If you are shooting one person or a group distance can dramatically affect the result.  </strong></li>
<li><strong>I saw a video once featuring James Schmelzer a Master Craftsmen Photographer with Westscott.  He talked about a test that he has photographers do and I think it is really a good idea. If you get a chance buy his video it is very well done and you cannot have to many pieces of reference material. I do not care how good you are. Set up a single light shoot using a soft box if you would like. Start with the light source right up to the model and then take a series of 15 shots each time moving the light back 1 foot. You will be amazed by the results.</strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong> What is wrap around lighting?</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Wrap around lighting is an effect that when the light is so soft that if you are using Broad Side or Short side lighting setups that the light actually wraps around and light the other side of the face. </strong></li>
<li><strong>To get this effect you want to use a light source that is at least 2x the size of the subject. If you are lighting a face use a soft box that is at least twice the size of the face.</strong></li>
<li><strong>Also do not use the typical 45 degree lighting setup you will need to turn the light away from the subject more back towards the camera until you are just skimming the face. Use the modeling light in your strobes if you are not using constant lighting to see the effect,</strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>What is Light Depth of Field?</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>There is such a thing as lighting depth of field. This is not the same as depth of field in focusing, it is how far the light can reach across a group of people or subjects.  This can be controlled by the light positioning angle and distance. When a light source is closer the light falls of faster than a light source that is farther away. So again experiment with the light angle turning it away from the subjects towards the camera and moving the light source away from the subjects. Use a light meter to see how close the main subjects readings are to the next and then next subject in line.</strong></li>
<li><strong>Remember that a reflector can help fill in the shadows, but the main light is still responsible for giving you the even lighting across a group. So before you start adding reflectors get the4 main light correct.</strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Do you ever use a Ring Flash?</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>I love ring flash photography. It is unique and I like unique and creative. There are a few things to remember when using a ring flash. </strong></li>
<li><strong>One it is meant to be used with a closer working distance that a standard modifier or light source. I typically use and 80mm lens on a Hasselblad H4D  40 this would be more like a 65mm oh a full frame DSLR. I have found that on a full frame DSLR 50mm &#8211; 100mm works best. Also use a prime lens. It will be difficult to zoom with your camera attached to a ring flash.</strong></li>
<li><strong>Move your subject close to the background. A ring flash creates a beautiful subtle shadow around your subject. The farther the subject is from the background the larger the shadow. I break this rule if I am trying to create a hallow or shadow outlining a models body. Remember you, and the model can move so try out different distances.</strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>What are you looking for when using a reflector or fill light?</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>If I am using a reflector or fill light, I am trying to eliminate or lesson the shadows on the cheek or nose. You never want to light the ear if it is exposed.</strong></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>What are your favorite reflectors?</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>I have no favorite. Each reflector has a purpose. </strong></li>
<li><strong>In doors I use a white reflector in close, a silver or zebra (silver and white or gold and white striped) is used once I get to a working distance that white will not light any longer.</strong></li>
<li><strong>Outdoors I use gold in sunlight to mimic the gold tones of the sun, if it is cool or shady, I will use silver or zebra (silver and white or gold and white striped).</strong></li>
<li><strong>I also use diffusers or scrims outside.  Placing a scrim or diffuser material to filter sunlight can give you the look of a cloudy day and make photographing in not prime daylight conditions better and easier. </strong></li>
</ul>
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